Fast fashion retailer Shein, which has faced backlash in the US due to concerns about forced labor and use of a U.S. tax law exemption known as de minimis, has confidentially filed for a public listing in London as it failed to win support for its US IPO.
Shein, founded by Xu Yangtian in Nanjing, China, in October 2008, had previously sought approval from the US Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) to go public but faced opposition from American lawmakers. The company has raised over $4.5 billion through eight funding rounds from investors such as Jafco Asia, IDG Capital, Greenwoods Asset Management, Mubadala Investment Company, HongShan (formerly the Chinese arm of Sequoia Capital), Tiger Global Management and General Atlantic.
Shein's current corporate structure makes it an offshore multinational company with exposure in China. An offshore IPO by such a company would require the approval of Chinese regulators, which has caused uncertainty for Shein's London IPO plans. The retailer ditched the variable interest entity (VIE) structure and set up its global headquarters in Singapore in 2021.
Despite these challenges, Shein confidentially filed papers with the UK authorities for a potential listing in London, which could value the company at about £35 billion ($63.3 billion). However, some major shareholders have lost patience with Shein's fundraising plans and are privately asking the company to consider buying back their shares. Private trading of Shein shares continues amid concerns over limited expected returns from a London IPO.
Shein's London IPO plan is not without controversy as it faces regulatory limbo due to geopolitical tensions between the US and China, as well as concerns over forced labor and intellectual property infringements. The retailer has faced criticism from US lawmakers, The Wall Street Journal, CNBC, Sky and Financial Times and other media outlets.
Shein's London IPO is a significant development in the world of fashion retail as it could be the biggest IPO in London since 2011. The company's decision to file for a London IPO instead of the US comes amid increasing tensions between China and the US, which has made it difficult for Chinese companies to list on American exchanges.
Despite these challenges, Shein remains confident about its future prospects as it continues to expand its operations globally. The retailer's success can be attributed to its ability to offer trendy and affordable fashion items quickly and efficiently through its e-commerce platform.